How to Clean and Care for Lacquered Wood Surfaces Aboard a Superyacht
Lacquered wood surfaces are a staple of the superyacht interior — and for good reason. That deep, mirror-like finish communicates luxury the moment a guest walks into a space. It is also, if you know what you are doing, one of the more straightforward surfaces to maintain. The key is understanding what lacquer actually is, what it responds well to, and — just as importantly — what it does not.
What Is a Lacquered Surface?
Lacquer is a resin-based coating applied to wood to create a hard, highly polished, and lustrous finish. Unlike bare or oiled wood, lacquered surfaces are sealed — which makes them relatively resilient to light daily use, but also means that the wrong cleaning product or technique can damage that seal permanently, leaving dull patches, discolouration, or a surface that no amount of polishing will restore.
Treat lacquered wood with the same care and respect you would give to any other high-value surface on board. It deserves it.
Before You Begin: Room Temperature and Humidity
This is a detail that many stewardesses overlook, but it matters. Natural wood — even when lacquered — is a living material that expands and contracts with changes in temperature and humidity. Extremes in either direction can cause the lacquer to crack, lift, or lose its lustre over time.
Before cleaning lacquered wood surfaces, ensure the room conditions are appropriate:
Temperature: Between 18 and 22 degrees Celsius
Humidity: Between 40 and 60 percent
On a well-managed superyacht, the climate control system should maintain these conditions automatically. Be particularly mindful when transitioning between climates — moving from the Caribbean to Northern Europe, for instance — as the vessel’s interior environment can shift significantly during a crossing.
What You Will Need
A soft, dry duster
A clean, soft, lint-free cloth — dampened, not wet
Distilled or clean fresh water
A drop cloth or protective layer for the surrounding area if needed
That is genuinely all. Lacquered wood does not need an arsenal of specialist products for routine daily maintenance. Simplicity is the approach here, and less is always more.
Cleaning Instructions
Step 1: Dust first. Begin at the top of the surface and work downward, using a soft duster to remove loose dust, debris, and particles. Always work from top to bottom so that anything dislodged falls onto a surface you have not yet cleaned. Use a gentle touch — never press firmly into the surface with a duster, as trapped particles can act as an abrasive and leave fine scratches in the lacquer.
Step 2: Remove fingerprints and marks. Using a soft cloth barely dampened with clean water, gently wipe away any fingerprints, smudges, or light surface marks. The cloth should be damp — not wet. Excess moisture sitting on a lacquered surface is damaging, and you should never allow water to pool or linger.
Step 3: Dry immediately. Follow immediately with a separate dry, lint-free cloth to remove all traces of moisture. Do not allow the surface to air dry. Buff gently in the direction of the grain where visible, and the lacquer will reward you with that signature deep, polished gleam.
Additional Tips and Advice
Be careful with flowers and plants. One of the most common causes of damage to lacquered surfaces on board is water rings left by vases and plant pots. Always place a protective coaster or liner beneath any vessel containing water — and when watering plants, be meticulous about not allowing drips or overflow to sit on the surface beneath. Even a small ring of water, left long enough, can leave a permanent mark.
Avoid vinegar on interior lacquered surfaces. White vinegar is a useful cleaning tool in certain contexts — outdoor teak and salt-affected furniture being among them — but it is acidic, and acid will alter and dull a lacquered finish over time. Unless you are dealing with salt residue on exterior wood specifically, there is no need for vinegar and every reason to avoid it on lacquered interior surfaces.
Use only appropriate wax products, sparingly. If the vessel’s lacquered surfaces require occasional waxing, use only natural wax products specifically recommended for lacquered wood, and follow the product instructions precisely. Apply sparingly, buff thoroughly, and never use silicone-based polishes or general furniture sprays — these can build up on the surface, attract dust, and leave a residue that is difficult to remove without causing further damage.
Never use:
Harsh or abrasive cleaning products
Ammonia-based cleaners
Bleach or chemical solvents
Rough cloths, scourers, or paper towels — all of which will scratch the finish
Steam cleaners on lacquered surfaces
For stubborn marks: If a mark does not respond to a lightly damp cloth, do not increase pressure or reach for a stronger product. Consult the vessel’s interior specification or the furniture manufacturer’s guidance before attempting any further treatment. On high-value lacquered cabinetry, a professional restorer is always preferable to an irreversible mistake.
A Final Word
Lacquered wood is beautiful, and it is not difficult to maintain — provided you respect what it is. Daily dusting, occasional gentle damp-wiping, immediate drying, and the discipline to keep the wrong products well away from it will keep these surfaces looking extraordinary for years.
In the superyacht interior, the details are everything. A lacquered surface that gleams is one of them.
Detailing, or detail clean, is to clean the fine points, specifics, technicalities and subject. It means basically to clean thoroughly.
This is not done every day, however, it is done, weekly, monthly and seasonally, depending on the workload of the yacht, the specific travel plans and the maintenance schedule.
How to Detail-Clean a Cabin | Details in a superyacht cabin to consider:
Walls and Ceiling:
Always work from the top down, so first pay close attention to the deck heads. These can be made out of any material, however, Alcantara and Novasuede are popular choices onboard modern yachts.
Brush the material with a soft nylon lint brush or a magic brush, this will remove any dust particles and will keep the material looking new.
If it is HPL or lacquered wood, then all that is needed is wiped over with a soft damp cloth.
Moving down the walls, again detail clean in accordance with the material used. Pay attention to tiny cracks between the bed head and the outer wall (this point includes similar places), as dust may accumulate there.
Doors:
All of the doors should be wiped down, paying attention to the top of the doors for dust.
Polish the door hinges and door handle.
In the public areas, you will need to polish metal on the aft sliding doors.
On these large doors, makes sure that there are no streak marks or watermarks from outside. The deck crew are quite good at this, however, it may need a stewardess’s eye to make sure it is spot-free.
Lights:
Check that the lights are working and replace any light bulbs accordingly. (The Chief Stewardess will do another walk around checking these details before the guests arrive).
The light fittings should be finger-mark free, a simple wipe over with vinegar and water or a generic window cleaner should suffice.
Make sure all of the lampshades have been vac dusted using the furniture brush of the vacuum cleaner or a magic brush.
Electronics:
Open the TV cabinet or get behind the unit to dust and clean the television screen.
Use alcohol on the telephone and remote controls using a cotton tip to get between the buttons.
Turn on all units to make sure that they are working properly.
On a touch screen pad gently use a microfibre cloth (do not press too hard).
If it is really dirty, then dampen the microfibre cloth with a little distilled water, (do not wet the screen).
Check all of the batteries.
Turn on the air conditioning unit and change the temperature to make sure that it is functioning properly.
Glass and metal:
Clean the portholes with vinegar and water or glass cleaner.
Polish the chrome/brass around the porthole.
Polish all metal fittings with corresponding polish.
This is probably not the most glamorous subject to talk about, but its a subject that has caused me a lot of grief over the years.
The laundry is an essential DAILY activity on board and like at home those sneaky clothing items (like socks), seem to effortlessly find their way into the “ABYSS” that every laundry seems to have and laundry accidents DO happen.
Some problems that you may have in the laundry are:missing socks, colour stained clothes. ie, pink, grey, brown, green, yellow, etc.; shrinkage, clothes go missing… or not making it back to the right cabin……..
Sort into colours, and items… suchas sort the towels from the delicate’s, sort clothing into 3 categories…lights, darks and colours, dry cleaning ONLY items should NEVER go into the wash.
Items that should always be washed separately are: Engineers overalls, galley towels, and cleaning rags.
Treat stains, with proper strain treatment product.
Check the label.
Load the machine with right items. DO NOT OVER LOAD THE MACHINE.
Do use a gentle or trusted laundry detergent. DO NOT use too much detergent.
Do use a low heat, Unless it’s for the galley towels, even then there is no need to go above 60 (Celsius).
Do not use fabric softer on any towels or cleaning rags.
Dry on a low to medium temperature. There is no need to cook your clothes…Towels may be dried on a hotter temperature. DO NOT put wool or delicate items in the dryer
DO maintain all your laundry equipment on a regular basis.
More detailed laundry instructions will follow in a later post.
“Life is like a work of art. If you don’t like what you see — paint over it.”
Fine art aboard a superyacht is not decoration in the conventional sense. It is a collection — carefully curated, personally chosen by the owner, and in many cases extraordinarily valuable. A painting selected because it reminds the principal of somewhere they love, or a sculpture commissioned from an artist they admire, carries a significance that goes far beyond its market value.
Your role as a stewardess is not to clean it. It is to protect it.
That distinction matters. Fine art requires the lightest possible touch, the right tools, and above all, an understanding of what you should and should not do. When in doubt, the correct answer is almost always: do less, not more.
What Counts as Fine Art on Board?
Fine art encompasses any item created primarily for aesthetic rather than functional purposes — oil paintings, watercolours, prints, sculptures, bronzes, ceramics, mixed media pieces, and installations. On a superyacht, these pieces vary enormously in medium, age, fragility, and value.
Before you approach any artwork, identify what you are dealing with. An oil painting on canvas requires a completely different approach to a bronze sculpture, and a contemporary print is handled differently to an antique watercolour. Knowing what you have is the essential first step.
If the vessel holds significant or high-value works, request an art inventory from the owner’s representative or management company. This document should note each piece, its medium, its location, and any specific care instructions. If one does not exist, recommend that one is created.
Before You Begin
Never attempt to clean, move, or treat a piece of artwork without the appropriate preparation. Even well-intentioned handling can cause irreversible damage.
A few non-negotiables before you begin:
Identify the medium. What is it made of? How was it created? How old is it? The more you know before you touch it, the better.
Wear cotton gloves. The natural oils in human skin transfer to surfaces on contact and can cause long-term damage to both paint and sculptural materials. Cotton gloves are essential — not optional.
Ensure good, stable conditions in the space. Fine art is sensitive to extremes of temperature, humidity, and light. The same environmental principles that apply to lacquered wood apply here: a stable room temperature of 18–22 degrees Celsius and a humidity level of between 40 and 60 percent is ideal.
What You Will Need
White cotton service gloves
A soft, clean makeup brush or fine-bristled artist’s brush
A soft duster
Clean white microfibre cloths
That is all. Fine art does not require specialist cleaning products for routine maintenance — and introducing any product without professional guidance is a risk not worth taking.
Cleaning Instructions
Step 1: Put your gloves on before you touch anything. This is not a step to skip or return to. Gloves go on first, before any contact with the artwork or its frame.
Step 2: Dust gently with a soft brush. Using a clean, soft makeup brush or fine artist’s brush, gently remove loose dust particles from the surface of the artwork. Use the lightest possible touch and work carefully — never press the brush into the surface or use any kind of sweeping or scrubbing motion. For sculptures, work around the form with the same gentle approach, paying particular attention to recesses and details where dust accumulates.
Step 3: Dust the frame with a microfibre cloth. Using a clean white microfibre cloth, gently wipe the frame — being careful not to allow the cloth to drag across the surface of the artwork itself. For ornate or gilded frames, use a soft brush rather than a cloth to avoid catching on any raised details.
Step 4: Do not go further than this. For routine maintenance, this is all that is required. Do not apply any cleaning product, polish, wax, or spray to any artwork or its frame without explicit guidance from a professional art conservator or the owner’s representative. The damage caused by well-intentioned overcleaning is one of the most common — and most heartbreaking — forms of art loss on board.
Handling and Moving Artwork
There will be occasions when artwork needs to be removed from the wall — during deep cleaning, a charter changeover, or when the vessel is undergoing maintenance. When this happens:
Always use two hands. Support the piece fully — one hand on each side, or one supporting the base for sculptures. Never grip a painting by its frame alone, and never carry it one-handed.
Never lean artwork against a sharp corner. Canvas, frames, and sculptural surfaces damage easily on impact. If a piece needs to be set down, place it flat against a padded surface or hold it supported until it can be re-hung.
Cover artwork when carpets or nearby surfaces are being cleaned. The spray, moisture, and chemical particles from carpet cleaning products can travel further than expected and settle on surrounding surfaces.
Cover or protect any artwork during painting or varnishing works on board. Even fumes from nearby painting can affect the surface of a canvas over time.
Environmental Considerations
The environment in which artwork is kept is as important as how it is handled. On a superyacht — with sea air, strong sunlight, and the movement and vibration of life at sea — art is under a unique set of pressures.
Sunlight: UV exposure is one of the most damaging forces acting on fine art. Fading, cracking, and yellowing can occur gradually and are largely irreversible. Pull blinds or shades when artwork is in direct or prolonged sunlight, particularly during sea passages when the vessel is unattended.
Salt air: Salt air is corrosive, and metal sculptures and frames are particularly susceptible. Regular, gentle dusting will help — but if you notice any signs of oxidation, discolouration, or surface change on a metal piece, do not attempt to treat it yourself. Have it attended to by a professional conservator.
Fragrance and sprays: Never spray air freshener, room fragrance, furniture polish, or any other aerosol product near artwork. The fine particles settle on surfaces invisibly and accumulate over time, affecting both the surface of the artwork and the finish of its frame.
Vibration: On a working vessel, the vibration of engines, generators, and sea movement can gradually loosen the fixings of wall-mounted pieces. Check that all artwork is securely hung on a regular basis — particularly after long passages or heavy weather.
When to Call a Professional
The most important advice in this entire article is this: know the limits of what you should handle yourself.
If a piece of artwork has been damaged — a scratch, a crack, flaking paint, a dented sculpture, discolouration, or any visible deterioration — do not attempt to repair or treat it. Report it immediately to the captain and the owner’s representative, document it with photographs, and arrange for a professional art conservator to assess it.
The same applies to any significant cleaning beyond light dusting. Deep cleaning, restoration, and the removal of any staining or residue on fine art is specialist work and should always be carried out by a qualified professional.
Your job is to keep the art dust-free, protected from its environment, and handled with the absolute care and respect it deserves. Everything beyond that is a professional’s territory.
In general, most people don’t learn to iron properly until they leave home and it’s one of those household chores that you either love or hate. Unfortunately, it is a never-ending daily chore that a superyacht stewardess must mace and learn to master… QUICKLY!
Below are some tried and tested ways on how to save time ironing:
Save time ironing before you even pull out your iron and ironing board, by hanging or folding your clothes as soon as it comes out of the dryer or off the line.
Do not overload the machines, it will be harder to remove the creases, and it’s not good for the machines
Do not over dry your clothes! Slightly damp clothes are a breeze to iron
Don’t waste time finding socks, pin them together using this great little product called “Lok A Sock“
Always use distilled water in your iron, as bottled water and tap water can clog up your iron with mineral residue
The ironing board is very much down to personal choice, and we all know that there are just so many on the market these days, however, your ironing boards should be able to meet the most basic needs of ironing
Your iron board must be easily adjustable to your height and at waist level so you are not hunched over for hours
It must be sturdy enough so that it won’t tip over or collapse when you put pressure on it
It should have a mesh backing with a padded cover tightly fitted over the board
And finally, it should be wide enough for heavy bed linens and table cloths
Make sure you have set up your ironing station with good light and suitable ventilation… You don’t want to be ironing in the dark
Sort your clothes into fabric categories, i.e delicates, cotton, wool…. the temperature of the iron is one thing that you can not cheat…If the iron is too hot you will see disastrous results with burnt clothing, and too cool will result in a poor finish
When ironing thick fabrics, iron both sides. for example the collars and cuffs on a shirt. This will stop any puckering that may occur
Preparation, before you begin, is the key to getting good results. Always lay the item flat on the board flattening the material with the palms of your hands starting from the centre and moving out to the edges. Try to iron in smooth straight strokes
Always iron the Collar, yoke, cuffs, belt, pockets first followed by the flat sections of the garment, that way you will not have the painful experience of having to iron a section twice. By following these simple tips, you can take the pain out of ironing and restore your garments to their former glory.
The best product that I have used for ironing is Downy
Get ahead of those creases with Downy wrinkle release is just one of those products that I just swear by.
Directions:
Spray 8 inches away
Spray fabrics with a sweeping motion until slightly damp
Use more spray for heavy fabrics or severe wrinkles
Tug and smooth away wrinkles.
Hang dry
Reduce Static Cling
Hold bottle 6-10″ from the item and spray lightly and evenly before wearing
When wearing clothes, spray outside of garment first.
Note: Safe on almost all fabrics. On fabrics which may water-spot (silk, rayon), test a hidden area first. Use only as intended.
Let us be honest: nobody puts this chapter on their list of favourite reading. But if you work in the interior of a superyacht, handling bodily fluid stains quickly, correctly, and without fuss is simply part of the job — and doing it well is the mark of a true professional.
The good news is that most bodily fluid stains follow the same fundamental rules. Learn those rules, keep the right products on board, and nothing will catch you off guard.
The Golden Rule: Act Immediately
Before we go into specific stains, understand this one principle above all others: the faster you act, the easier the clean. A fresh stain dealt with in the first few minutes is a fraction of the work of a dried, set stain dealt with hours later.
On a superyacht, where linens, upholstery, and surfaces are often high-end and delicate, speed is your greatest cleaning tool. The moment a stain occurs — or is discovered — treat it.
How to Remove Vomit
Fresh stain: Remove any solid matter first using a clean cloth or paper towel, working from the outside of the stain inward to avoid spreading it. Blot — never rub — the remaining residue with cold water and a small amount of enzyme-based laundry detergent or an upholstery cleaner suitable for the surface. Rinse with cold water and allow to dry thoroughly.
Set or dried stain: Rehydrate the stain gently with cold water before treating. Apply an enzyme-based cleaner and allow it to sit for ten to fifteen minutes before blotting clean. For fabric and linen, a pre-soak in cold water with an enzyme detergent before laundering will lift most residue. Follow with a normal wash cycle at the temperature the fabric permits.
On hard surfaces: Wipe clean with a damp cloth and a surface-appropriate disinfectant. Ventilate the space well and use a neutralising spray — not a heavily perfumed air freshener, which will simply layer on top of the odour rather than eliminating it.
Important: Always use cold water on biological stains. Hot water sets protein-based stains permanently into fabric.
How to Remove Blood Stains
Blood is a protein-based stain, which means cold water is essential — hot water will bond the stain to the fibres and make it extremely difficult to remove.
Fresh stain on fabric or linen: Rinse immediately under cold running water to flush as much of the stain as possible. Apply a small amount of enzyme detergent, work it gently into the fibres, and rinse again. Repeat as needed before laundering normally.
Set or dried stain on fabric: Soak the item in cold water with an enzyme-based detergent for thirty minutes to an hour. For stubborn stains, a paste of biological washing powder and cold water applied directly to the stain and left to work before washing can be very effective. Do not place blood-stained items in a hot wash until the stain has been fully treated.
On hard surfaces: Wipe away with a cold damp cloth and a diluted disinfectant. For grout lines or textured surfaces, a soft brush will help lift residue.
How to Remove Urine Stains
Urine stains require two things: stain removal and odour neutralisation. Cleaning the visible mark without addressing the smell is only half the job done.
Fresh stain: Blot up as much moisture as possible immediately with a clean, dry cloth. Apply cold water and blot again. Then treat with an enzyme-based cleaner — these are specifically formulated to break down the uric acid crystals responsible for the persistent odour. Allow to sit for the time recommended on the product, then blot clean and allow to dry fully.
Set stain: The odour from a dried urine stain can be persistent and unpleasant, particularly on upholstery and mattress covers. Soak the area with an enzyme cleaner — do not be shy with the quantity, as it needs to penetrate as deeply as the original stain did — and allow it to work for a minimum of fifteen to twenty minutes before blotting away. Repeat if necessary.
On hard floors: Wipe clean with a diluted disinfectant and follow with a neutralising spray. Avoid ammonia-based cleaners, which actually intensify urine odour rather than eliminating it.
How to Remove Faecal Stains
On hard surfaces: Remove any solid matter first using disposable gloves and paper towels. Clean the area thoroughly with a disinfectant solution and a firm cloth or brush. Rinse and dry. Ventilate the space and use a neutralising spray.
On fabric or linen: Remove solid matter carefully before wetting the area. Rinse under cold running water, then pre-soak in cold water with an enzyme detergent for at least thirty minutes. Launder at the highest temperature the fabric safely permits. These items should always be washed separately from other laundry.
How to Remove Sweat Stains
Fresh perspiration stains are largely odour-based and respond well to normal laundering. It is the yellow, set sweat stains — most commonly seen on white shirt collars and underarms — that require a more targeted approach.
For yellowed sweat stains: Make a paste using bicarbonate of soda and white vinegar, or use an oxygen-based stain remover (such as OxiClean or a similar product). Apply directly to the stain, work it gently into the fabric, and leave it for thirty to sixty minutes before laundering. For particularly stubborn staining, a diluted solution of hydrogen peroxide (three percent) applied to the area and left for fifteen minutes before washing can be highly effective on white cotton.
Avoid using chlorine bleach on sweat stains — it can actually intensify the yellowing on protein-based stains rather than removing it.
How to Remove Breast Milk and Formula Stains
Both breast milk and formula are protein and fat-based stains and follow the same basic treatment as other biological stains.
Fresh stain: Rinse immediately with cold water and treat with an enzyme-based detergent before laundering normally.
Dried or set stain: Pre-soak in cold water with enzyme detergent for thirty minutes before washing. For yellow formula stains on fabric, an oxygen-based stain remover works well. Always check the care label before treating any luxury or delicate item — silk and fine linens will need a gentler approach.
Stain Treatment: Key Principles at a Glance
Cold water only on all biological and protein-based stains — heat sets them permanently
Act immediately — fresh stains are always easier to remove than set ones
Enzyme-based cleaners are your most effective tool for biological stains
Blot, never rub — rubbing spreads the stain and damages the fibres
Neutralise odour as well as removing the visible mark — they are two separate steps
Wear gloves when handling biological waste — always
Separate contaminated laundry from all other items before washing
Ventilate any treated space fully after cleaning
A Note on Luxury Fabrics
Superyacht linens are frequently high-end — Egyptian cotton, fine linen, silk, cashmere, and bespoke upholstery fabrics. Always check care labels before applying any treatment, and when in doubt, test any product on an inconspicuous area first. If a stain is on an expensive or irreplaceable item, consult a professional laundry service rather than risking further damage.
A well-stocked laundry kit on board should always include an enzyme-based pre-treatment spray, an oxygen-based stain remover, bicarbonate of soda, white vinegar, disposable gloves, and a selection of clean white cloths reserved for stain treatment.
